16.5.12

Spanish memories

I have had the pleasure of spending a good week around easter in Malaga and Sevilla in Spain
Malaga has for many years been a text book example of a destination totally destroyed by tourism and a place I have avoided as destination for the very same reason.

Breaking waves


However this spring an amazing woman offered me the opportunity to see Malaga thorough her eyes, as someone having lived there and knowing every back alley and corner inside out. Fair to say that there is a layer of Malaga unseen to most visitors and it is just beneath our own eyes. Below is a few of my personal highlights from the trip.

If you know where to go, there is a few surprises. A lot will go unmentioned in this post, as i could spend hours writing about the many experience.
Below is a few of the highlights that are easy to find and not necessarily depend on travelling with a local.

Master Chef

Tapadaki:

Yeah, I know the guy in this image look a little suspicious, but he is the master chef and king of the kitchen in Tapadaki, a place I can best describe as an up-scale Spanish/Japanese fusion Tapas restaurant.
It does sound odd, but the food prepared here is first rate and the service is equally good. I am not an expert on food, but i have had my fair share of Tapas, both before and particularly on this journey and Tapadaki is the place to go.If you ever find yourself in Malaga, you want to have dinner and drinks here.


Sunset at El Palo

El Palo:

Located just north of Malaga and probably very touristy during summer, but early in the season this is where the locals seems to gather up for drinks, coffee and seafood.
During the day and well into the evening it is bustling with a mix of young and old having a mix of anything from morning coffee to Mojitos, while kicking back and talking loud about nothing and everything.
The area is more or less free of those huge resort nightmares and mostly filled with cozy boutique hotels and hostels. Now the tourist nightmare is never far away, but it is a wonderful oasis of relaxed Spanish atmosphere and top class seafood.

La Tetería

La Tetería:

A local tea-house with more tea on the menu than I have seen anywhere else. Hidden away in a side street this cozy little tea-house was mostly crowded by locals, we spotted a couple of local guitar players jamming at one table and 3 friends doing an enthusiastic catch up at another.
It is just a wonderful place to rest for a while, have a cup or two of exotic tea and just take in the local atmosphere.
They have one of the wider selections of tea and if one are into sweets, then the they have a wide selection of home made sweets to accompany the tea.

La Consula:

La Consula
No this driveway may not look like much, but at the far end of it is Ernest Hemingway's old villa and it house the institution where the future Spanish master chefs and top waiters are educated. Better yet it has a lunch restaurant, where you have a chance to taste the fine cuisine experiments of the next generation of Spanish master chefs. Prepared under supervision of some the finest chefs in Spain and served by the future generation of top waiters. How cool is that.
A school cannot be star rated in guide Michelin, but la Consula is represented in the guide with a honourable mention apparently and while expensive by Spanish standards it definitely is worth a visit. I am going back next time that is for sure.


Nerja:

Nerja
A sleepy and increasingly touristy village 45 minutes bus ride north of Malaga.
Famous probably for the nearby Nerja Caves and the Balcony of Europe viewpoint (the image above was taken standing just below it)
If one are able to get of the touristy stuff, then it is such an amazingly cozy village with a huge amount of tiny beaches surrounded by steep rock formations.
From my viewpoint it looked like an bouldering heaven and judging by the number of crashpads being carried around by people I am probably right . In other words, I am going back there to climb some day:)
The village itself is a labyrinth of narrow streets, with a variety of shops, restaurants and cafés and judging from the pleased look on the face of my female travel companion, there are interesting stuff to be shopped here.
Seems quite a good mix, bouldering for the guys and shopping and beach time for the woman, all in one location - Not bad, not bad at all :)


Balcony of Europe

I hope you have enjoyed these fragmented Spanish memories of mine. Malaga is still a tourist nightmare to me, but there is a most intriguing local life going on beneath the surface of it and if they let you in, you are in for an amazing experience, an experience which cannot be shared in words.

Thanks for reading,
Thomas

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