3.6.11

Day 8 – Resting up, “Kaffemik” and a nightly walk

The first night in a real bed after days without it, is always amazing and as we woke up this morning we both agreed that this time around was as good as ever.
Lots of things to be done on this day though, why we got dressed and quickly prepared and consumed the usual hot müsli stew and chilli tea.
First stop was the local store “Pilersuisoq”, that also holds bank and postal office, here we transferred the agreed amount to be paid for having piggy bagged on the two hunters for four days.

Arkiunnguaq reminded us in a combination of body language and pointing that Tukummeq had invited us for coffee later that afternoon.

We also did some basic shopping before walking across the street to meet Hans the hotel owner, who also owns the ultima thule store, selling what is supposed to be some of the finest handicraft in Greenland, Not much to see though.

 There was a few interesting pieces and the quality of the handicraft was indeed very high, just nothing we really wanted or needed. We walked by the real hostel and dropped off a back of dirty laundry with the owner’s wife, she told us to collect it when we would stop by for the “kaffemik” later that day.

From here we continued to the local hospital to deliver all the loaned outer clothing back, very much in the local style the lock on the door was football sized rock in front of it, to keep the sled dog pups out, so we just walked in and carefully left the clothes where it belongs.

A quick lunch later we were on our way to the real hostel again, the owner’s daughter turns 27 and that is something that should be celebrated in the traditional Greenlandic style.

It is called “kaffemik” and simply means that somewhere between early afternoon and dinner everybody stops by when it suits them for either a bit of food or a piece of one of the many cakes always prepared for such an event.

The young woman we were all celebrating were dressed in the ceremonial North Greenlandic dress, a gorgeous display of handicraft and quite different from the West Greenlandic one.

We greeted her with a small present and sampled a little of the food and cake before collecting our now freshly washed laundry and walking our merry way home.

It felt a little odd hanging wet laundry to dry outdoors in -23C, but if all the locals does it, then why not. Within seconds from being hung up it was, much as expected, a load of stiffly frozen sails in the light breeze. No time to worry though, Arkiunnguaq showed up to drive us to his and Tukummeq´s home.



We entered what was clearly the home of a successful and very Christian couple. The home was well build and well maintained, pretty much every wall was decorated with Christian pictures or paintings along with numerous pictures of relatives and children and grand children.
We spent a couple of relaxing and very pleasing hours in their company before heading back home. A wonderful and kind couple, before we left we exchanged emails with tukummeq to be able to stay in touch.

As we arrived back home we discovered to our surprise that the laundry hung up 3 hours earlier was already as dry as had it hung there for days.
No need to think about why, we quickly collected the clothes and headed back indoors to prepare a basic dinner.

The supplies left over from the trip and the days up there needed to be cleared out and made for an interesting stew of pearl barley, rice and vegetables, with soy sauce, served with a curry soup as a starter.

Just before midnight, as we finalized packing up our bags for the flight home the following evening, we set out on our last night time walk, we walked on and along the ice, taking in the stunningly beautiful arctic light and securing the last couple of meaningful images from this visit to the far north.

After a bone chilling, but very beautiful two hour walk, we arrived back at our room and headed straight for bed.

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