8.2.11

Day 4 - Isortoq, a place out of this world:

"BEEEP - BEEEP - BEEEP!" – Good morning time is now 0700 hrs and it is Tuesday, Nobody likes the sound of an alarm clock during a vacation, but in this particular case neither of us disliked it.
Today was the day of our visit to the Settlement "Isortoq", one of the most remote settlements in Greenland and probably in the world.
We got up quickly, showed and prepared a hot müsli stew for breakfast, donned our gear and grabbed the prepacked daypack and camera bag, before heading for the harbour.
Here we boarded the local cargo liner sailing supplies the 5 hours to the tiny settlement, it only does this route twice a week during summer and only if the sea ice allows passage to the settlement.
We were greeted kindly by the crew, speaking only Greenlandic and a few syllables of Danish.
And for the next five hours we sat there watching the crew work the ship through a massive ocean filled with huge icebergs from the Northern Ice sheet.

Several times on our journey we are greeted by the “SWOOSH” of humpback whales breathing air and following the ship for a little while. Amazing how lucky one feels sailing among icebergs and with the sight and sound of humpbacks following the same route.
Finally we arrive at a barren and flat Island among huge icebergs and with a massive glacier glooming in the distance.
This Island is the definition of solitude rough nature. It just feels remote in a way I am unable to describe and likely influenced by the journey to get here. The settlement is home to some of the most skilful and hardwearing dog sled drivers and hunters in the world and it shows on the inhabitants, they look like people living at the end of the world and working hard just to stay alive, but still the children greeting us, looking at and touching Louise's blond hair seems so full of joy.

The house looks like they are in a constant struggle between being maintained by the people living there and destroyed by the forces of nature.
Even the sled dogs here look more hardened and tough than sled dogs elsewhere, more lean and fierce.
This village is such a contrast between perhaps some of the most difficult living conditions in the world and some of the most welcoming and kind people I have met in Greenland.
We are only there for a little over an hour, but it took minutes for this settlement and the people here to make an impression on me that I will never forget. I pray to come back here one day, but to stay longer and learn more about their life.
The trip back is another stunning display of the arctic nature and the stunning sceneries Mother Nature are capable of in the arctic regions. We sat back in awe and enjoyed the scenery, 5 hours sounds like a long trip, but with a display this beautiful, 5 hours is only a short trip.
Getting back to the hostel, neither of us are capable of anything, but to prepack our bags and the head to bed.
This last day in the Tasiilaq region has been beyond words and tomorrow we will be heading North and for the first time arrive in Polar Bear Country or Ittoqqortoormiit as it is called in Greenlandic.

4 comments:

  1. That iceberg is... wow!!!
    I will read everything here, for sure.

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  2. Darko,
    My sincere thanks and thank you for stopping by.
    I am very glad to see you in my new world:)

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  3. lovely places you reveal to your viewers, Thomas!

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  4. Jill,
    So wonderful to see you here in my new world too.
    Thanks for stopping by and for liking the view.

    ReplyDelete