8.2.11

Day 17 – Goodbye Ittoqqortoormit – Hello Nerlerit Inaat:

We woke up early on this morning where we would have to pay our goodbyes to the Settlement of Ittoqqortoormiit. Packed up the last bags, had the usual breakfast of hot müsli stew and sweet chilli tea, before heading towards the Nanu Travel office to say goodbye and thank you to Karina and Martin.

We also had to pay for the guest house and some other stuff, but prices seemed very fair, so not much in the way of complaints really. Both Martin and Karina had been total stars during our stay. Nanu Travel really is good people to work with when travelling to Ittoqqortoormiit or Nerlerit Inaat.
From the we went to Therecie and Eric’s place to say goodbye, thank you and see you next time. We also met up with Marius at their place arrange shipment of the polar bear fur and payment.
Marius had already packed up everything, so we walkted to the combined post and bank office and made the necessary arrangements.





Back to the guest house again to pick up our luggage. We  bumped into Jennifer and asked if she would be able to drive us tot the pier, which she happily did, we had to make a side trip to the gas station to put some air on a leaky tire, but we made it to the pier just in time.
Jennifer had been a the perfect host the duration of our stay. She really is the perfect host for the location and she runs the best guest house we have stayed at in Greenland.
Our boat driver Marius showed up on the pier half a minute later. So we got the boat packed up and Marius set the course towards Nerlerit Inaat. Hurry fiord was remarkably calm almost mirror like, a rather unusual thing for the often very rough fiord, but it made for a sunny and beautiful trip to the pier near Nerlerit Inaat.



Here we unloaded our bags, loaded the shotgun and made a call to the Airport.
Kalle, the Airport Manager sent down a truck to pick us up and off we were towards Nerlerit Inaat.
The place is essentially a gravel air strip, a control tower and a few barracks.

The local guest house or hotel as it is mentioned is the total opposite of the one in Ittoqqortoormiit.
It is somewhere in between dirty and disgusting, worn and it seems like a place that exist only to rip off whoever might choose to stay there and maintained just enough not to fall totally apart.
They are not without Humour in Nerlerit Inaat though, the Barrack is called “Hilton” and the sign shows one star minus 5. The price though is 450 DKK per person nearly twice the prise of the one in Ittoqqortoormiit.




One can order lunch and dinner too (which you will need unless you bring your own food with you), boosting the price to 700 DKK per person. It is not a cheap place to stay, but it really is the only option so if you want a bed in Nerlerit Inaat you will live there.

The barracks themselves consist of some very basic rooms, doors with no locks, two dry toilets (that at our arrival really is in for a change of bag) and a shower in the hallway and two seating areas that have been furnished with furniture left over from someone living there in the 60ies. The cleaning lady have quite possibly quit somewhere in the 90ies and the replacement seems to have gotten lost on his/her way up there.
All in all quite a disappointment coming from Jennifers excellent guest house, but the people there are friendly enough, so that is an upside, as we are living virtually on the apron, we are given some standard info that is quite common knowledge;
“Stay clear of any aircraft or helicopter (especially with engines running) and avoid walking on the runway.”

We still have a couple of hours until dinner and decide to explore the nearest valley and we have our first hike in the sandstone wonderland called Jamison land.
We find a small and sandy stream where we have our afternoon sweet chilli tea before heading back towards the airport.
As we arrive we are greeted by the two bear guards (two huge sled dogs adopted by the staff), the sled dogs in this area has been used for bear hunting through generations, thus they are the perfect measure against stray polar bears. They were brought to the base after an increasing amount of near fatal bear episodes in and around the airport. - Good natured and very big, but friendly dogs they are.

Now accommodation in Nerlerit Inaat may not have been that impressive, but what the local chef has prepared for dinner sure is.
A solid and very well prepared meal of turkey, rice potatoes and fresh salad. Not bad at all, the hotel would likely never get as much as a star in any brochure, but the food is any four start hotel worthy.

 We enjoy our evening tea on apron and I do a short walk into the lowlands to do some basic landscapes around sunset, which coincides with the moon rise.

As we put another interesting day behind us and heads to bed we agree that tomorrow surely will be another great adventure.

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